Clothing and equipment guide
Introduction
Those attempting to present and accurate portrayal of the militiaman of the AmericanRevolution have a difficult task. Recreated Continental and Crown units have the benefit oforderly books and inspection returns to aid in producing a relatively authentic depiction of their18th century counterparts. Unfortunately, detailed information has not been left behind fromthose who served in the militia, particularly the area that our recreated unit represents.Because of this, research centered on a depiction of a militia unit must be done throughother means. Militiamen straddled the line between military and civilian life and this would bereflected in his appearance. Therefore, in order to portray a member of a militia company, onemust take into account all aspects of that militiaman’s life: geographic location, religion,ethnicity, social status, age, trade and education. One must understand these in order toaccurately portray a militiaman.This membership manual is meant to be a guide into the world of the men of Outwater’sCompany. It is meant to help you accurately portray them based upon research done to date.There are many “do’s” and “do not’s” throughout the manual, these are not to discourage butrather lead you so as to avoid the mistakes we have all made in the past.We encourage your ideas and participation in developing an increasingly accurateportrayal of the common soldier of the American Revolution.Welcome to Outwater’s!
Part 1: Building a Persona
One of the unique aspects of portraying a member of the militia in that you build your own “character”. Perhaps you wish to represent a veteran of the Frenchand Indian War, using a mixture of older style clothing and military equipment ofthat time. Or you can depict a small farmer, wearing largely homemade clothingand equipment, with perhaps a fowler or hunting gun instead of a military one.The details are up to you and you should try to have fun with it. Pick somethingyou are interested in, this is the perfect outlet for an interest in a period trade orcraft.It should be foremost in your mind that the members of Outwater’sCompany were Jersey Dutch. The Jersey Dutch were an interesting mix of theoriginal Dutch settlers and the immigrants that would follow: French, Scotch,Walloon, German, English and Polish. What makes these people unique is that asthe cultures mixed, their speech, dress and customs remained largely Dutch. TheJersey Dutch spoke a dialect of Dutch, were baptized in the Dutch ReformedChurch and their dress and customs showed a Dutch influence. Anotherconsideration is that New Jersey was a British colony for over a century before thewar. Because of mercantile laws, the imported items would have beenoverwhelmingly British and citizens of Bergen would have access to the latest inclothes and textiles due to their proximity to New York.Outwater’s Company was composed of a wide variety of tradesmen and menof different means. Bergen County was largely inhabited by farmers, but therewere also tanners, millers, river-boatmen, teachers and many other trades.Contemporary paintings and engravings show that what one wore largely dependedon one’s trade. Also, the wealth of the individual would largely affect the types ofclothing available to that person. A small farmer may be limited to simple homespun linen and wool clothing, whereas a prosperous merchant maybe able to afford imported fabrics and tailored clothing. Most people from Bergen County were farmers, but there were many other occupations such as: blacksmiths, boatmen/sailors, carpenters, colliers, coopers, fishermen, innkeepers, joiners, millers, stagecoach drivers and tanners to name a few. Some period pictures have been included in the appendix for examples.
Part II: Clothing Men’s Clothing Checklist
After you work out the details of what type of person you wish to portray, begin to think what clothing and equipment would be appropriate for that persona. Look over the following list of items.
Remember, ALL materials have to be natural and period correct.
Outer garments• Farmer or workmen’s smock
Sleeved waistcoat
Civilian frock coat
Sailor’s jacket
Small clothes• Wool, linen, or buckskin breeches•
Linen shirts ( White, striped, check)
Linen Trousers
Civilian-style gaiters
Linen or wool waistcoats(single or double breasted1760’s to early 1780’s)
Neckwear
Cravat or Neckerchief (varying colors)
Headgear
Felt civilian tricorn
Uncocked hat
Monmouth caps
Work cap (new pattern)
Round hat
Fantail hat
Dutch Caps
Footwear
Period leather shoes buckled or tied
Eyewear•
Period spectacles (round frames)
Things to Avoid• Fringed hunting shirts /frocks•
Scotch bonnets• Modern shoes• Machine made hats• Hats of varying colors. (Most hats were black)• Ranger caps• Boots• Shooting glasses• Men’s shirt’s in different colors, solids.
General Rules for Men's Clothing
There are some general rules in regards to clothing. The upper classes are more likely to wear frock coat, breeches and waistcoats of solid colors or simple patterns made of wool and fine linen. The lower classes were more inclined to wear jackets or coats, linen smocks, waistcoats, breeches, trousers and slops. They would have used bright and gaudy colors as well as stripes and checks.
Equipment guide
Men that field as a militia man need a musket or fowler, bayonet or tomahawk, canteen, knapsack, wool blanket, and a cartridge box holding at least 23 rounds.
Long land Brown Besses are preferred over Short land, but harder to find. Pre-1770 French Charlievilles are preferred over 1777 style, as they did not find they way into American hands until the end of the war.
Canteens preferably should be wooden, banded with wood, with a linen strap. Water is required out in the field.
Knapsacks were a required item- haversacks were not issued. Blankets were carried attached to the knapsack. When we field. we almost always carry knapsacks.
New Jersey was a well settled place- the wild frontier was well beyond our borders, so Native American Indian dress is inappropriate, as is carrying large knives.
!8th Century clothes usually fitted tight. Snug on the legs for breeches, snug on the arms and shoulders for coats/jackets. Half gaiters/gaiters and leggings were snug from the angle to knee.
A wooden bowl, tin cup and a period correct spoon were all most men carried for eating. A group of 5 or 6 shared a kettle.
The following Militia Ordinance was passed by the New Jersey Provincial Congress, and it is a good outline for equipment required for Outwater's Company:"That every person above directed to be enrolled shall bear Arms, attend Musters, and in all Things be comformable to the Rules and Orders herein after mentioned; and shall, as soon as possible, furnish himself with a good musket, well fitted with a Bayonet, Steel Ramrod, Worm, Priming-wire and Brush, a Knapsack, Canteen, twelve Flints, Cartouch-Box, and twenty-three Rounds of Cartridges suited to his Gun..."Passed by the New Jersey Assembly, March 1778. Original Statue book in the collection of the Morristown National Historical Park. Note: the statute has a preamble and 58 sections. The quote is from Section 4.
Long or Short Land Pattern Musket (Brown Bess): A British Brown Bess musket was the standard firearm for the British Army. The Long Land Pattern (or First Model) had a 46" barrel and saw use through the French and Indian War. During the conflict, the Short Land Pattern (Second Model) was introduced with a 42" barrel and changes in the furniture. There is documentation that the Long Land Pattern muskets were being cut down in the field during the war. Considering that New Jersey was a British colony until 1776, it is probably safe to say that the Brown Bess was available in Bergen County.
Committee of Safety musket: Since there was a deficiency of military muskets, the local Committee of Safety would contract a gunsmith to produce copies of the Brown Bess. The result was a close approximation of the British gun.Fowler: The use of a fowler, or a hunting gun much like the modern shotgun, would be likely. A fowler was much like a musket in that it is smoothbore, and could be loaded quickly. Any fowler should be of a Dutch pattern, but not the "Hudson Valley Fowler". The barrels of the Hudson Valley fowler are so long that it is impractical for military service. Fowlers should be of at least .62 caliber.
1763 Model or earlier French musket: There is also documentation of French muskets finding their way back to New Jersey after the French and Indian War. These would be of the 1763 pattern or earlier, as the 1777 pattern muskets were almost exclusively used in Continental Service.Rifles- technically, rifles were not allowed in the NJ Militia until late in the war. If you are purchasing a firelock, get a musket or fowler first. I period correct rifle will be allowed if you already own firearms regardless of model are required to be fitted with a flashguard and hammerstall for safety.
Flashguards must have two points of contact so it can not swivel if loose.
Wooden plate or bowl, cup, and eating utensils: Is is not documented that a militiaman would have carried these item, but they are necessary to eat at events! Treenware, made of wood, was the most economical and durable choice and very common. Likewise, a tin cup will stand up to being carried in a haversack. Forks, spoons and knives would most likely be brought from home so civilian utensils are appropriate. Crude utensils such as forks made from twisted wire are period but for Continental troops. Other materials, such as pottery, are certainly authentic, but prone to breaking.
Worm, Wire and Brush, and Musket Tool: These items are for maintenance of the muskets; a worm was used to clean the barrel and remove foreign objects, while a pick and brush were used to remove black powder fowling from the area around the touch hole, and a musket tool was a combination of a pick and screwdriver. The so-called "Pickering Tool" should be avoided: although it is based on a drawing from Timothy Pickering's drill manual an original has never been found. Either a musket tool or a period screwdriver is appropriate for tightening musket screws. Required under the NJ Militia Acts,. along with spare flints.
Things to Avoid/Picking Patterns
Before buying your first piece of equipment, pick up a copy George Neumann's Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia of the American Revolution. This author owns one of the largest collections of originals from the period (part of which is on display at Valley Forge) and was one of the founders of the Brigade of the American Revolution. The book contains over 2,300 photographs and illustrations of period pieces and is as close to a definitive source for styles and patterns of equipment as there is. Neumann's other book, Swords and Blades of the American Revolution, is just as helpful for those specific items.
When picking a piece of equipment for your "kit", the most important question is "How would my 18th century 'self' get this?". Militiamen were expected to equip themselves, so there would be the same range of quality in materials and construction as with clothing. Equipment should generally be circa pre-1775 British standard issue or an American made approximation of British equipment. American made versions of equipment ranged from very crude to almost exact copies.
There are some items that saw service in the Continental Army, but are not exactly correct for militia. Items such as "Newly invented knapsack/Haversacks" and tin cartridge boxes were made for the Continental Army by governmental contractors and it is unlikely that they would find their way into a militiaman's hands. A good rule of thumb is if you need to make an intricate story for why you would have a particular item, it is probably not right for you.
Before buying your first piece of equipment, pick up a copy George Neumann's Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia of the American Revolution. This author owns one of the largest collections of originals from the period (part of which is on display at Valley Forge) and was one of the founders of the Brigade of the American Revolution. The book contains over 2,300 photographs and illustrations of period pieces and is as close to a definitive source for styles and patterns of equipment as there is. Neumann's other book, Swords and Blades of the American Revolution, is just as helpful for those specific items.
When picking a piece of equipment for your "kit", the most important question is "How would my 18th century 'self' get this?". Militiamen were expected to equip themselves, so there would be the same range of quality in materials and construction as with clothing. Equipment should generally be circa pre-1775 British standard issue or an American made approximation of British equipment. American made versions of equipment ranged from very crude to almost exact copies.
There are some items that saw service in the Continental Army, but are not exactly correct for militia. Items such as "Newly invented knapsack/Haversacks" and tin cartridge boxes were made for the Continental Army by governmental contractors and it is unlikely that they would find their way into a militiaman's hands. A good rule of thumb is if you need to make an intricate story for why you would have a particular item, it is probably not right for you.
WOMEN'S Clothing guide
Like with men's clothing of the Revolutionary War era there were "standard"items worn almost universally. This basic set of clothes would include: a shift, petticoat, stockings, shoes, stays, a modesty piece and a gown or short gown. Again the quality of construction, materials, colors and patterns would set one class of person apart from another. Additional articles could be caps, hats, pockets,aprons and capes. For complete information on 18th century women's clothing, including patterns and descriptions, check the Basic Non-Military Clothing Guide forWomen, printed by the Brigade of the American Revolution and Beth Gilgun's Tidings from the 18th Century.
Women’s Clothing Checklist
Outer Garments, Neckwear, Shoes, Headwear-Choosing Clothing Styles to Match Your Persona
For types and styles, Clothing and Textiles in New Jersey: 1776-1782, is excellent reference. It is a collection of excerpts from New Jersey and New York newspapers containing references to clothing and fabrics in New Jersey; advertisements for run-away slaves and indentured servants, descriptions of lost or stolen property, and advertisements of merchants. It gives a good idea of what styles, fabrics and colors of clothing were available and/or popular during the war. It includes descriptions for both men and woman, as well as many classes. Another source is contemporary prints and paintings. Artists such as William Hogarth (1697-1764) and Denis Diderot's L'Ecyclopedie (1763) have numerous drawings of all sorts of individuals from the period. Diderot's work is especially helpful because he produced hundreds of plates dedicated to specific trades and industries and while Hogarth is somewhat early for our period, his subjects are a window into everyday English life.
Fabrics and Patterns For our uses, only 100% natural fiber fabrics such as linen, wool, cotton, silkand are certain blends of these are acceptable. Of these, the fabrics of choice were linen and wool because they were the most available fabrics and cheaper in the 18th century. Correct fabrics drape properly, conform to shape more readily, crease, wrinkle, and wear more appropriately and are safer to wear around campfires. The following is reproduced from the Basic Non-Military Clothing Guide for Women for reference: Linen: a fabric made from the flax plant, noted for its strenth, coolness and luster. Please do not confuse linen-look materials for true linen. These are often polyester blends. Read the bolts for fiber content.
Cotton: a fabric made from plant seed fiber. Because the cotton gin had notbeen invented at the time of the American Revolution, cotton was more expensive than linen and most of it was imported.
Wool: the fiber from the fleece of sheep. This was the most common fabric,whether called woolen, worsted or stuff. Wool was so finely woven that iswould retain a firm edge when cut and left "raw".
Silk: A filament produced by the larvae of a silkworm as it spins its cocoon.While some silk was produced domestically, most silk was imported.
Color: All colors achieved in the 18th century were created with naturaldyes. These were obtained from berries, roots, bark, flowers, shells, andinsects. Some fabrics "took" dyes better than others.
Stripes and checks: While solid colors were probably the most common,stripes and checks were worn.Stripes: whether even or uneven, remained fairly small until just before the end of our period.
Checks: for semantic clarification, means any fabric of any fiber in plain weave with one, two or three colored warp and one, two or three colored weft stripes intersecting at right angles to form squares.
Prints: Printed linens and cottons were available and popular in the eighteenth century. Finding printed fabrics today that are right for ourclothing is difficult. Some companies, such as Waverly and Schumacher,have produced fabrics, which are called "documented prints" in 100%natural fiber.On all 100% fiber fabrics, prewashing in essential. Even if you intendto dry-clean your clothing, rain and sweat can shrink a fabric just as easily, ruining your garment. Also make sure all your seams are finished to prevent unraveling. Documentable styles and patterns are just as important so be sure about anything before you buy. Approved patterns are available from the Brigade of the American Revolution. This is not to say that the BAR is the only source for patterns, just the most reliable. J.P. Ryan Patterns are also very good and available from many of the merchants, and Beth Gilgun includes many patterns in her book Tidings from the 18th Century. Before you purchase finished clothing or materials to make your own, check with the Commander first, getting a sample swatch before committing yourself.
Clothing Suggestions Before you purchase any items, consult the Commander or Unit Officer to make sure that is of sufficient quality and authenticity. Many of the merchants that service this hobby cater to other time periods and other types of units, so it is possible to get something that is of our period but is simply not documentable for what we portray. Due to the unit's high authenticity standards, such unacceptable items will not be allowed to be used. Do not make costly mistake, double check with the Commander to make sure that the material, tailoring or the general use of the item is correct for our portrayal. Also, some of the sutlers cut corner, like using cottonfor linings or the like. Before you buy something, ask questions about constructionand materials